Moody: the works

A list of links to all my non-tech writings:

Essays

Glanglish - with audio versions

Travel writings

Moody's Black Notebook Travels

Walks with Lorenzetti

A Partial India

Novels

Doing the Business

Egyptian Romance 

Poems

Sonnets - new post

2025 Istanbul

Atmospheric corridors inside the Büyük Valide han

It is dark, with few lights, and all kinds of junk piled in the corridors.  On each side there is an amazing variety of small rooms.  A few are surprisingly glamorous showrooms.  Others are simple workspaces, with people cutting cloth, or making jewellery.  Some are half-bare rooms full of tools and equipment, a few men working with pieces of metal.  One or two are on two floors, with internal stairs rising to another level.  In one corner, there is a café, supposedly with a fine view of the sea.  Since we had already enjoyed a fine view from Mimar Sinan café, we gave this a miss.

A return after three decades to the ancient and amazing city of Istanbul, now a pullulating supercity of 16 million people.  Alongside the famous sights – Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern and Topkapi palace – and the mosque masterpieces of the world's greatest architect, Mimar Sinan, a host of out-of-the-way gems to be discovered among the city's many steep hills.

2025 Brescia

A perfectly-preserved Roman statue of Victory, found in Brescia

To Pinacoteca Martinengo.  We’re practically the only visitors, of course.  A room with some great frescoes – one with a huge, shaggy dog.  Another room, with two Raphaels – real ones.  Weird pic by Moretto – Last Supper.  Christ has a hippy hat with badges, and a shell pinned on the left shoulder. Pilgrim symbols, apparently. The maid is carrying a dish of what looks like roast monkey, and none too fresh.  Striking pic of Christ and Veronica, with lots of soldiers looking fearful.  By Il Cariani.  

A day trip to the hidden gem of Brescia, a northern Italian city full of Roman remains and excellent modern museums.

2025 Azerbaijan

A river to ford, a blocked road to clear, a broken bridge to circumvent

Journey from Quba was amazing, not least because it was in two distinct parts.  For half an hour, we passed 12 to 15 hotels, dozens of restaurants.  Already very developed there, beautiful, but tamed, rather like the landscapes around Lake Garda.  Then suddenly, through a narrow gorge and we are in a wild, beautiful country.  Stone walls rising hundreds of metres, a deep valley.  It’s raining, but that adds to the beauty.  After the narrow gorge, some stunning rock formations.  Beyond, a long road was visible, rising, rather like the one that led to Song-Köl in Kyrgyzstan.

Because of the broken bridge here, we had to drive across the river bed, ford the river, and then drive up a steep bank.  The lorry finally moved, and we were able to descend along the road it had blocked.  The bridge was being rebuilt with two concrete walls, but there a huge gap from the old road, which had been swept away with the bridge by the immense force of the river in spate.

A trip to the little-visited but fascinating Azerbaijan, passing from its fast-developing seaside capital Baku to the isolated hilltop village of Khinalug, deep in the heart of the Caucasus mountains.  Unforgettable.

2025 Toronto

The view from Canoe, book and cocktail to hand

In Canoe, on the 54th floor of the Toronto-Dominion Bank tower (a Ludwig Mies van der Rohe project, apparently).  Stunning views south – to the small landing strip on the nearby island, and west.  Air wonderfully clear today.  Earlier, lunch in St Lawrence Market.  Not quite as I remember it, but a good atmosphere, spoilt somewhat by the live lobsters in tanks, waiting to be killed, probably slowly and horribly…  Then to here, for the view, not the booze and expensive foods in this upmarket business lunch/dinner spot.  Small prop planes landing every few minutes at the airport.  Not many A380s so far, alas…

Returning to Toronto, 35 years later.  Some things the same, some different.  The good news: the Art Gallery of Ontario has many more paintings by the Group of Seven.  Wonderful stuff.

2025 Sarajevo

Looking towards the old town and the surrounding hills

Up on the observation deck, a watery sun above me.  I can pick out landmarks of the old town.  And see how utterly vulnerable it was to snipers…  Air slightly hazy, maybe smoke.  Car horns rise from below – they are used a lot here.  Also striking how people will park anywhere – even worse than in Italy.  Actually, looking towards the airport, pretty clear the haze is fumes.  The air not too healthy, I suspect.  The tower good and stable – I’ve not felt any swaying…. The railway below looks rusty and dilapidated – a bit like those in Tbilisi and Chisinau.  I love these views from high places.

Black metal shutters in Svrzo's house 

 Amazing black window shutters made of metal – bronze? - they look like 3D versions of Rothko’s paintings, rich rectangles hanging in space more literally than in the pix.  Overall, the minimalist vibe plus the use of wood has a distinctly Japanese feel. A big panel of thick planks can be folded down to close the staircase leading to the internal courtyard.  As well as the beauty of the workmanship, what is striking about this place is the scale: room after room, all gorgeously appointed.  Amazingly, I had the place entirely to myself.  Also in the museums, this morning, no more than five other people.

A short trip to Sarajevo, a uniquely Muslim and European city where some of the most tragic events of recent times took place.

2024 Georgia

 

Kvetera fortress church

Sitting inside the Kvetera fortress church.  What an astonishing masterpiece.  Its form, with the four main apses linked by smaller infills.  The shocking blue of the tiled roof.  And inside, the porous, almost edible stone makes the whole surface alive.  

The stone of Kvetera fortress church

The columns have wonderful capitals – with square elements in the upper corners, and semicircles in the lower parts.  Amazingly original, you wonder what the architect/stonemason was thinking when they came up with it…

Inside Kvetera fortress church

A recent trip to Georgia, mostly spent in the wine-making region of Kakheti.  Surrounded by the Caucasus, and bordered by Chechnya and Dagestan, it is home to some amazing churches and much more. With photos...

2024 Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

High in the mountains, at the heart of Kyrgyzstan

Thanks to the driver, we reach the pass at 3,400 metres - very cold, but we did arrive.  The view on the other side just staggering - the mountains behind Bishkek, seen from the south.  To the west, Kyzart.  Then a deep rut in the mud caused us to skid, with the car at an angle to the road, and tipping upwards at what seems 45 degrees, wheels spinning hopelessly.  We had to gather from the surrounding fields suitably big but flat stones and put them under the wheel to provide some grip.  Got out finally, but road still really bad… 

This year's big trip was to Kyrgyzstan, via Almaty in Kazakhstan.  Wonderful unspoilt landscapes, including the huge and improbable Issyk-Kul Lake, looking like a pale blue sea ringed by snow-capped mountains, on one side of which lay China's Xinjiang...

The shipping containers of Dordoy bazaar

2023 Tajikistan

The entrance to the Yaghnob valley

At the last fork in the road for us: up to Margib, down to the Yaghnob valley.  Two huge peaks lour over the village here, green follows the river.  Just stunning.  The road here long, long, long, but worth it.  Not met anyone else along this stretch.  Before we got to Anzob, a few lorries, some carrying coal.  Turns out my driver has a water melon to deliver, so we follow the road to another part of Margib village.  Fine by me, but means we will get to Dushanbe late…

This year's big trip, to Tajikistan, little-known but evidently developing rapidly.  Come for the mountains, stay for the friendly people and the, er, mountains.

2023 Bilbao

The Guggenheim Bilbao by night

By the cathedral in the old town.  The smell of drains, and a light rain falling.  A characteristic feature of the houses in this district is the glassed-in balconies – like Turkey and Georgia.  Strange to see them here.

My latest trip, to this fascinating and little-known Basque city, home of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, the "Spanish Mozart", Arriaga, and the extremely drinkable txakoli...

Incoming: Spare Slots for Freelance Work in 2023

I will soon have spare slots in my freelance writing schedule for regular weekly or monthly work, and major projects. Here are the main areas that I've been covering, some for nearly three decades. Any commissioning editors interested in talking about them or related subjects, please contact me at glyn.moody@gmail.com. I am also available to speak on these topics at relevant conferences around in the world, something I have done many times in the past. 

Privacy, Surveillance, Encryption, Freedom of Speech 

Over the last decade, I have written hundreds of articles about these crucial areas, for Techdirt, Privacy News Online, and Ars Technica. Given the increasing challenges facing society in these areas, they will remain an important focus for my work in the future. 

Copyright

I have also written many hundreds of articles about copyright. These have been mainly for Techdirt, where I have published nearly 1,900 posts, CopyBuzz, and Walled Culture. Most recently, I have written a 300-page book, also called Walled Culture, detailing the history of digital copyright, its huge problems, and possible solutions. Free ebook versions of its text are available. 

EU Tech Policy and EU Trade Agreements: DSA, DMA, TTIP, CETA 

I have written about EU tech policy for CopyBuzz, focussing on the EU Copyright Directive, and for Privacy News Online, dealing with major initiatives such as the Digital Services Act, the Digital Markets Act, and the Artificial Intelligence Act. Another major focus of my writing has been so-called "trade agreements" like TTIP, CETA, TPP and TISA. "So-called", because they go far beyond traditional discussions of tariffs, and have major implications for many areas normally subject to democratic decision making, notably tech policy. In addition to 51 TTIP Updates that I originally wrote for Computerworld UK. I have covered this area extensively for Techdirt and Ars Technica, including a major feature on TTIP for the latter. 

Free Software/Open Source

I started covering this topic in 1995, wrote the first mainstream article on Linux for Wired in 1997, and the first (and still only) detailed history of the subject, Rebel Code: Linux and the Open Source Revolution in 2001, for which I interviewed the world’s top 50 hackers at length. 

Open Access, Open Data, Open Science, Open Government, Open Everything 

As the ideas underlying openness, sharing and online collaboration have spread, so has my coverage of them, particularly for Techdirt. I wrote one of the most detailed histories of Open Access, for Ars Technica, and its history and problems also form Chapter 3 of my book Walled Culture, mentioned above. 

Europe 

As a glance at some of my 580,000 (sic) posts to Twitter, and 18,000 posts on Mastodon, will indicate, I read news sources in a number of languages (Italian, German, French, Russian, Spanish, Portuguese, and Georgian in descending order of capability.) This means I can offer a fully European perspective on any of the topics above - something that may be of interest to publications wishing to provide global coverage that goes beyond purely anglophone reporting. The 25,000 or so followers that I have across these social networks also means that I can push out links to my articles, something that I do as a matter of course to boost their readership and encourage engagement. 

Glyn Moody 

London 2023

Where to find me on Mastodon

Since Elon Musk is trying to ban any mention of Mastodon on Twitter, I thought I'd just make it as easy as possible to find me on the former.  I'm at 

https://mastodon.social/@glynmoody

I look forward to meeting lots of you there, where we can discuss the continuing and inevitable decline of Twitter under Musk.

Doing the Business: a novel about the office

Back in November, during the UK's second lockdown, I put online my novel about travel and tourism – "Egyptian Romance" – since it was the closest I or most people would get to visiting these or any other places.  As we enter the third UK lockdown, I thought I'd post the novel I wrote afterwards, about another activity that is now similarly rare and exotic: working in an office.

"Doing the Business" is about the particular social dynamics of the office, specifically within a magazine publishing company.  It is even more archaeological, because it describes how magazines were produced before computers.  But its main themes are gloire and amour, which I hope will provide a little distraction, just as they have down the centuries...

Glanglish, and other Weekly Essays

In 1990, before I had a go at writing a couple of novels, I put together Glanglish, a collection of short essays.  They are about nothing in particular, and were more in the nature of five-finger exercises for my writing (and thinking).  I aim to post one a week, which I'll add to the list below.

Glanglish

Contents

The weekly essay - with audio

Chiral asymmetries - with audio
Wallpaper - with audio
The knife's deity - with audio
Ludwig van who? - with audio
Rubbish - with audio
The new Jesuits - with audio
Systemic dis-ease - with audio
Weird messages - with audio
Looking at glass - with audio
Placing words in English - with audio
The plane truth - with audio
Meta-physicality - with audio
Accidents and substance - with audio
Colonising names - with audio
The crown in the jewel - with audio
The Turing point - with audio
Thoughts for your pennies - with audio
Repeatability - with audio
Intraviewing - with audio
Socratic wisdom - with audio
Invisible royalty - with audio
The oscillating universe - with audio
Digital reality - with audio
Forever Eden - with audio
Pravda - with audio
Glanglish - with audio
Scarlatti's cat - with audio

The check-out - with audio
The finite brain - with audio
8.8.88 - with audio
Silly farts - with audio
The contingent apple - with audio
The profit of the beard - with audio
What masterpiece? - with audio
Spot the similarity - with audio
Cacography - with audio
Windy city - with audio
Corporeal integrity - with audio
Counting the cost - with audio
Dire diary - with audio
Three sciences - with audio
Antics - with audio
God in the body - with audio
The insolence of the inanimate - with audio
Hoardings - with audio
Stargazing - with audio
Truckling on - with audio
Nostalgia for Brezhnev - with audio
Dalliance - with audio
Booting up - with audio
Getting the idea - with audio

Egyptian Romance: a novel about travel

Once again, many people are under lockdown.  Once again, travel is hard, or impossible.  During the first lockdown, I published my black notebooks recording most of my travels over the last thirty-odd years.  So I thought this second lockdown might be a good moment to publish some more travel-related writing.

"Egyptian Romance" is a novel, but one based on information I gathered during my own trip to Egypt in 1990, which I published as a series of four posts earlier this year.  It represents a re-working of my black books from that trip in a form that some may find easier to read.  It can therefore be seen as part of a series, which includes A Partial India - a re-working of my travel notebook for India, and Walks with Lorenzetti, which re-visits a 1988 trip I made to Venice. 

Empire's End

or

The Tale of a Tourist

• Chapter 1 - Egyptian Romance
• Chapter 1 - Cairo, Saturday 18 February, 1990
• Chapter 1 - London, Sunday June 3, 1990
• Chapter 2 - The Egyptian Museum
• Chapter 2 - Cairo, Sunday 19 February, 1990
• Chapter 2 - London, Sunday 1 July, 1990
• Chapter 3 - The First Pyramids
• Chapter 3 - Saqqarah, Monday 20 February, 1990
• Chapter 3 - London, Saturday July 7, 1990
• Chapter 4 - The Great Pyramids of Giza
• Chapter 4 - Giza, Tuesday 21 February, 1990
• Chapter 4 - London, Saturday July 14, 1990
• Chapter 5 - Intermediate Periods
• Chapter 5 - Cairo, Wednesday, 22 February, 1990
• Chapter 5 - London, Sunday 29 July, 1990
• Chapter 6 - Luxor
• Chapter 6 - Luxor, Thursday 23 February, 1990
• Chapter 6 - London, Saturday 1 September, 1990
• Chapter 7 - Luxor - the West Bank
• Chapter 7 - Luxor, West Bank, Friday 24 February, 1990
• Chapter 7 - London, Saturday 8 September, 1990
• Chapter 8 - Aswan
• Chapter 8 - Between Luxor and Aswan, Saturday 25 February, 1990
• Chapter 8 - London, Sunday 16 September, 1990
• Chapter 9 - Abu Simbel
• Chapter 9 - Aswan airport, Sunday 26 February, 1990
• Chapter 9 - London, September 22, 1990
• Chapter 10 - The Decline and Fall of Egypt
• Chapter 10 - Alexandria, Monday 27 February, 1990
• Chapter 10 - London, Saturday 20 October, 1990
• Chapter 11 - Alexandria
• Chapter 11 - Alexandria, Tuesday 28 February, 1990
• Chapter 11 - London, Saturday 27 October, 1990
• Chapter 12 - Suez
• Chapter 12 - Alexandria, Wednesday 1 March, 1990
• Chapter 12 - London, Saturday 24 November, 1990
• Chapter 13 - Cairo, Thursday 2 March, 1990
• Chapter 13 - London, Saturday 15 December, 1990
• Chapter 14 - London, January 1991
• 
  
• 
  

Introduction to Moody's Black Notebook Travels

I have two great regrets in my life.  One is eating a chicken sandwich in Varanasi, shortly before flying to Kathmandu.  This gave me the worst food poisoning I have ever experienced, nearly killed me, and meant that I missed a unique opportunity to visit Lhasa before it was turned into a Chinese Disneyland.  The other regret involves three Inter-rail trips that I made in 1979, 1980 and 1981.  They were extraordinarily rich in sights and experiences.  Stupidly, though, I did not keep a travel diary at that time, so all I have are vague, if important, memories of what I saw, thought and felt.

At least I was able to learn from these two huge blunders.  Afterwards, I no longer ate chicken sandwiches in exotic lands, and I kept travel diaries for all my major trips.  The latter took the form of black notebooks, bought from Ryman's, in two formats: one small enough to fit in a pocket, and another, slightly larger, that I kept in the travel bag I used for longer journeys. 

I now have dozens of these notebooks sitting behind me, filled with my illegible scrawl.  I have been meaning to turn them into digital texts for some years, and to bring them into the 21st century, but have never got around to it until now.  I am not transcribing them in any set order, but will place links to them below, as they go online, ordered chronologically.  There is no overall plan, no overall significance.  They are just what they are: quick thoughts jotted down in black notebooks, captured moments of a specific time and place.

1986 India I: Delhi, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri
1986 India II: Kashmir
1986 India III: Jaipur, Udaipur
1987 Italy

1987 Isle of Man
1988 Venice

1988 Boston

1988 Northern England, Glasgow, Isle of Skye
1988 Hong Kong, Bali

1988 San Francisco
1988 India: Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Varanasi
1988 Nepal: Kathmandu, Pokhara

1989 Zürich 

1989 Oslo

1989 Eastern Ireland

1989 New York

1989 US, New Zealand, Fiji

1990 Egypt I: Cairo, Saqqarah, Giza
1990 Egypt II: Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel
1990 Egypt III: Asyut, Kharga, El Amarna
1990 Egypt IV: Alexandria, Wadi El Natrun, Suez

1990 California 

1990 Western Ireland

1990 Toronto

1991 Lisbon

1991 Paris

1991 Berlin

1992 Paris

1992 Indonesia I: Lombok, Bali
1992 Indonesia II: Yogyakarta, Solo, Jakarta

1992 Northern England, Scotland, Orkney
1993 Mexico
1993 Istanbul
1993 Morocco

1993 Prague
1994 Sri Lanka
1994 the Danube: Neuburg, Vienna, Budapest
1994 France

1994 Rome
1994 Trieste, Ljubljana 
1995 Siena, Bagno Vignoni, Pienza
1995 Stockholm
1996 Torino
1996 Lithuania
1996 Ithaca
1996 Vienna, Venice
1996 Helsinki, Tallinn
1997 Seattle
1999 Weimar, Venice
2014 Riga 
2015 Tbilisi
2017 Bucharest
2017 Shanghai, Shenzhen, Hong Kong
2017 Georgia
2018 Tirana
2018 Armenia
2019 Reykjavik
2019 Moldova
2019 Uzbekistan

2020 Scotland

2021 Gibraltar

2022 Uzbekistan: Samarkand, Khiva, Bokhara, Tashkent 

2022 Stavanger

2022 Bratislava 

2023 Barcelona 

2023 Paris 

2023 Bilbao

2023 Tajikistan: Dushanbe, Khujand, Panjakent 

2023 Shetland

2024 Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan - new post

Walks with Lorenzetti: Venice, Memory, Tourism

Just as A Partial India was a re-working of my travel notebook for India, so Walks with Lorenzetti re-visits a 1988 trip I made to Venice.  A Partial India and the notes it is based on try to capture the unrepeatable impact of seeing India for the first time.  Walks with Lorenzetti is quite different.  Although it was a particularly intense few days in Venice, it was far from my first trip there.  I brought with me other memories of the city and elsewhere, as well as various kinds of relevant knowledge built up over the years before.

Walks with Lorenzetti therefore goes beyond simply re-working one of my travel notebooks.  It weaves in other major strands, including three of the city's greatest creators and their art: the music of Vivaldi, the paintings of Canaletto, and the writing of Goldoni.  Above all, it follows in the footsteps of another book: Guido Lorenzetti's Venice and its Lagoon, a forgotten masterpiece that deserves to be better-known.  I hope the following pages will help to achieve that.

Foreword

Preamble

Introductory Chapters

The book
The itineraries
The man

The Twelve Itineraries

I - First act: eighth itinerary
II - First night movement: Allegro più ch’è possible
III - First portrait: Antonio Vivaldi
IV - Second act: ninth itinerary
V - Second night movement: intermezzo
VI - Second portrait: Carlo Goldoni
VII - Third act: third itinerary
VIII - Third night movement: capriccio
IX - Third portrait: Antonio Canaletto
X - Fourth act: fourth itinerary
XI - Fourth night movement: finale
XII - Fourth portrait: itinerant biographies

Recollections

The personal tempest

Venice and its Lagoon

Souvenir