25 July 2025

2025 Azerbaijan

A river to ford, a blocked road to clear, a broken bridge to circumvent
A river to ford, a blocked road to clear, a broken bridge to circumvent

Journey from Quba was amazing, not least because it was in two distinct parts.  For half an hour, we passed 12 to 15 hotels, dozens of restaurants.  Already very developed there, beautiful, but tamed, rather like the landscapes around Lake Garda.  Then suddenly, through a narrow gorge and we are in a wild, beautiful country.  Stone walls rising hundreds of metres, a deep valley.  It’s raining, but that adds to the beauty.  After the narrow gorge, some stunning rock formations.  Beyond, a long road was visible, rising, rather like the one that led to Song-Köl in Kyrgyzstan.

Because of the broken bridge here, we had to drive across the river bed, ford the river, and then drive up a steep bank.  The lorry finally moved, and we were able to descend along the road it had blocked.  The bridge was being rebuilt with two concrete walls, but there a huge gap from the old road, which had been swept away with the bridge by the immense force of the river in spate.

A trip to the little-visited but fascinating Azerbaijan, passing from its fast-developing seaside capital Baku to the isolated hilltop village of Khinalug, deep in the heart of the Caucasus mountains.  Unforgettable.

11 July 2025

2025 Toronto

The view from Canoe, book and cocktail to hand
The view from Canoe, book and cocktail to hand


In 
Canoe, on the 54th floor of the Toronto-Dominion Bank tower (a Ludwig Mies van der Rohe project, apparently).  Stunning views south – to the small landing strip on the nearby island, and west.  Air wonderfully clear today.  Earlier, lunch in St Lawrence Market.  Not quite as I remember it, but a good atmosphere, spoilt somewhat by the live lobsters in tanks, waiting to be killed, probably slowly and horribly…  Then to here, for the view, not the booze and expensive foods in this upmarket business lunch/dinner spot.  Small prop planes landing every few minutes at the airport.  Not many A380s so far, alas…

Returning to Toronto, 35 years later.  Some things the same, some different.  The good news: the Art Gallery of Ontario has many more paintings by the Group of Seven.  Wonderful stuff.