10 March 2026
31 October 2025
2025 Istanbul
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| Atmospheric corridors inside the Büyük Valide han |
It is dark, with few lights, and all kinds of junk piled in the corridors. On each side there is an amazing variety of small rooms. A few are surprisingly glamorous showrooms. Others are simple workspaces, with people cutting cloth, or making jewellery. Some are half-bare rooms full of tools and equipment, a few men working with pieces of metal. One or two are on two floors, with internal stairs rising to another level. In one corner, there is a café, supposedly with a fine view of the sea. Since we had already enjoyed a fine view from Mimar Sinan café, we gave this a miss.
A return after three decades to the ancient and amazing city of Istanbul, now a pullulating supercity of 16 million people. Alongside the famous sights – Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern and Topkapi palace – and the mosque masterpieces of the world's greatest architect, Mimar Sinan, a host of out-of-the-way gems to be discovered among the city's many steep hills.
Posted by
Glyn Moody
at
11:22 am
Labels: basilica cistern, black sea, bosphorus, golden horn, hagia sophia, han, istanbul, mimar sinan, mosques, topkapi palace, trams, turkey
26 August 2025
2025 Brescia
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| A perfectly-preserved Roman statue of Victory, found in Brescia |
To Pinacoteca Martinengo. We’re practically the only visitors, of course. A room with some great frescoes – one with a huge, shaggy dog. Another room, with two Raphaels – real ones. Weird pic by Moretto – Last Supper. Christ has a hippy hat with badges, and a shell pinned on the left shoulder. Pilgrim symbols, apparently. The maid is carrying a dish of what looks like roast monkey, and none too fresh. Striking pic of Christ and Veronica, with lots of soldiers looking fearful. By Il Cariani.
Posted by
Glyn Moody
at
1:26 pm
Labels: brescia, brixia, frescoes, laocoon, messerschmidt, moretto, mosaics, raphael, romans, ruins, santa giulia, Sofonisba Anguissola, temple, victory

